Bur guide
Which bur shape does which job at the bench, from drilling and seat cutting to rounding prong tips.
Bur shapes and uses
Most jeweler's burs come on a 3/32 in (2.35 mm) shank, which fits standard flex shaft and micromotor handpieces. Bur size numbers refer to the head diameter.
| Shape | Typical use |
|---|---|
| Round (ball) | Starting holes before drilling, opening seats for round stones, and general carving and cleanup. |
| Hart (45°, 70°, 90°) | Cutting seats in prongs and in channel and flush settings. The sharp edge can also score lines or bright cut. |
| Setting | Cutting seats for tube, bezel and prong settings in one step, matched to the stone's pavilion angle. |
| Bud | Shaping seats for fancy-shaped stones, and repositioning, tapering or enlarging holes. |
| Cone | Tapering holes and cleaning up the back of drilled holes. |
| Cylinder | Straight sides and a flat end for removing metal where a file won't reach, and for flat-bottomed cuts. |
| Inverted cone | Flat-bottomed undercuts, tapered slots and starting seats in irregular bezels. Also cleans inside bezels and channels. |
| Cup | Rounding prong tips and wire ends such as ear wires. Pick a cup slightly larger than the wire diameter. |
| Wheel (knife edge) | Cutting grooves and fine lines, such as decorative grooves and bearings in setting walls. |
Speed and lubrication
Let the bur cut without pressing hard. Pressure overheats the edge and dulls it quickly. A drop of bur lubricant keeps the edge cool, clears chips, and leaves a cleaner seat.
Carbide or steel
Carbide burs keep their edge longer and handle platinum and hard white gold well, but they are brittle and chip if they catch. Steel burs cost less and suit everyday gold and silver work. Store burs in a bur box so the edges don't knock together.
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